This is it.

Hola, Hola

So without a doubt my blogging has been less than stellar lately…what can I say except that I guess I got busy…(o boy how I will look back next semester and laugh at me thinking this is ‘busy’…)

Since I’ve last chronicled my adventures there have been some amazing moments and if you’re willing to bear with me I would love to share all the dirty details with you…just kidding because per usual there was nothing scandalous…promise.

I was so lucky to have a visit from MOM from November 4^th-9^th and for 6 days and 5 nights we wined, dined, laughed and enjoyed comfy beds, always hot showers and A.C. (ok maybe I was the only one for whom that was a highlight :) Erica being such a wicked smarty pants booked a hotel in Puerto Madero just a couple blocks from UCA allowing me to get to know another part of the city…way to go ‘Ric! We did a bike tour (and I got a lovely view of everyone from behind as I chose to bring up the rear fearing that my rusty bike schools may resemble my coordination skills- shotty), toured Tigre by boat (and witnessed effects of polluted water on the fish population first hand…ew), did some museum duty, had a wine tasting (where we both managed to offend probably 3/5 of the crowd…count on us Americans to step on some toes after a few glasses…), and of course had some lomo. Count on Mom to always have some great idea up her sleeve, going with the flow every second, bearing with me as I try to hold my own on the city’s many modes of transporation (yep, I took her on a bus all by myself- so what if it was only about 6 blocks of a ride), knowing just what I need, always having a great gossip story from the 02043 and of course obliging to my weird requests- margaritas and onion rings at TGI Friday’s and the two twin beds pushed together…she’s the best. Although her leaving was a bittersweet moment it marked the final push of my abroad destination and left me a few weeks to take on finals and plan one more trip.

Classes at UCA ended as quickly as they seemed to have begun. Sure, I reached a new high in terms of procrastination but come on people, the weather got sunnier every day, the thermometer rose and I needed to give this albino body some outdoor time in the sun before it goes back and blends in with the snow at home. All joking aside, yes I did finish and turn in every final assignment…on time- booyeah.

Being the wild and spontaneous fool that I am I managed to shanghai Jen into heading to Vina del Mar, Chile with me for some final R&R beach and poolside before we returned home to host Thanksgiving (that’s another story) and pack. Don’t know what I’ve ever done for her that would motivate her to take a 20 (that turned into 24) hour bus ride from Buenos Aires to Vina del Mar but we did it! For 3 days we were able to experience some of the most beautiful I have seen- beaches, jetties, winding roads, apartments built into the hills…it was breathtaking and made the inevitable ‘you haven’t seen sun in 5 months’ sunburn totally worth it. Thanks for putting up with my shenanigans and sharing some laughs with me Jenny :)

Thank goodness we made it back nice and early Wednesday morning before Thanksgiving because we had some prepping and preparing to do for our big Thanksgiving…haha. We were fortunate to be able to host ourselves (minus Helen who was munching steak with her parents at one of the best restaurants in town…can’t say I blame her…), the three other Richmond students and one German who had never been to a Thanksgiving before. Despite being in a cranberry-less, Turkey-less country I’d say we did pretty well. Not sure Food Network would invite us for a special anytime soon but our college flair (evident in the paper and plastic plates, napkins and silverware) certainly added a unique aspect to our roasted chicken take on Turkey Day. Keeping the Malbec flowing maybe heightened the ‘deliciousness factor’ but hey, whatever it takes. It was a nice day although the 90 degree weather, lack of football and lumpy potatoes couldn’t help but make me think about home. I guess it’s true what they say- you don’t really know what you have until it’s gone. I would definitely say that I never realized how truly important and necessary an painstakingly early Turkey Trot is (so you can attempt to justify all the food you consume throughout the day) or the pretending to care what you wear only to revert to jeans and later sweatpants or the reintroduction of room temperature leftovers late at night while tuned in to It’s a Wonderful Life on TV…but hey I guess missing it this year will make next year’s even better…although maybe I could introduce some Argentine flair in the form of a meat parrilla…eh maybe not.

So Thanksgiving ended and so began the packing up for some of us. Helen left us to venture to Chile with some other Richmond kids and Kate and Steph were the first to go home, but not before the four of us enjoyed a spontaneous evening in San Telmo at Bar Seddon and the least Argentine thing we could have done- hookah. O well, whatever it takes to get a few last good laughs and pictures all together.

So, I’m going to be perfectly honest the last few days of my time here in Buenos Aires I didn’t run around like a madwoman to buy everything I hadn’t, tour every street corner I had yet to look at or eat every last cow in the country. But, I did see the parts of Buenos Aires I had come to know and love each day over the past 5 months. I was able to run through the side streets, sit on benches in the green parks I had come to love, gain a few last whistles while walking home with the groceries and cook in our kitchen a last few times. But, you know what I think all of this is pretty significant. For a place I thought was so foreign, freaky and downright panic-inducing five months ago, Buenos Aires has become my home away from home. Weird to even say that, to even refer to it as my ‘home’. Sure I have missed my gummy bears, comfy bed and Bravo Network but Buenos Aires has definitely offered me a place to learn, grow as a person, have some up and downs, contemplate life in general (so profound, I know), experiment and laugh…and hey, isn’t that everything a home does. It gives you struggles and triumphs, moments of rejoice and feelings of sadness at times. But, in the end (I know Mom and Dad you both said I would say this at some point) it was all worth it. That’s right, 5 months away from everything familiar and comforting to this hermit yours truly has been a once-in-a-lifetime, irreplaceable experience. Here’s a few things I have learned about myself…

- I can go on a Subway and not totally screw it up

- Surviving without texting and BBMing is possible (just increase your doses of Facebook and Skype chat and you’ll be fine)

- Yeah I missed my family, but they really didn’t throw a party every single night like I feared and I think they may be willing to re-do some things I missed doing with them

- According to my roommates, I eat more corn, peppers and onions than anyone…just more proof that I’m probably Mexican somewhere deep down inside

- I do not and never will ‘fit in’ in a physical sense to anywhere south of the border…but that’s ok I don’t mind being a snow bunny I guess

- I am addicted to Law and Order- Yes, I managed to figure out when and on what channels it played during the work so I could get my fix

I know these are all pretty trivial, but I’m not about to sit here and make some sappy list of everything I have accomplished...I’ll spare you all. It’s weird to be sitting here at my gate wasting the time before I board my flight home…am I really going home? Home to the 02043 not to Palermo Soho? Is this really over? Has 5 months really passed? Yep, guess all of this is true. The 5 months and change that seemed like an eternity back in July has really gone by and I’m no worse for the wear. Kinda scary if you think about it- how fast life moves…couldn’t be happier I got a chance to pretty much sit back and ‘smell the roses’ here in B.A….guess I should probably learn to do this at home a little more. Bizarre to think that the smelly running sneakers in my carry-on beside me that I refused to throw out have run in three different countries, gotten wet from waterfalls, walked on beach sand, touched snow in the Andes mountains and stepped in dog poop in Palermo. Ok TMI, sorry. As I prepare to end this experience and this blog I realize that this whole thing has been SO WORTH IT. I feel so blessed to have found such a strong support system in my family and friends who cheered me on every step of the way (even if Nana did ask why I couldn’t just fly home every time she talked to me :)…you guys really did pick me up when I was down, listened to my insignificant problems (after all what problems/complaints are truly valid when you’ve been given the opportunity to explore in another country for 5 months…), answered all of my novel-length emails, commented on the plethora of mindless photos I posted on shutterfly, and patiently listened to every detail of every single thing I told you. You guys are the best and you have made me realize how much I care for and value every single one of you. This has been a wild ride; I’ve learned more about me and who I am as a person…something everyone has to do at some point, but I’m feeling pretty lucky that I have started to analyze all this already because boy do I have some things to work on (hahaha). So I could go on and on, tell you about every single person I am people-watching in the terminal while writing this but if you’re still hanging in there and reading this then you deserve a break right about now. So I’ll leave you all (12 followers….wow exponential numbers) with this last thought- if you’re a homebody, hermit, creature of habit, nervous/anxious/indecisive person like me or even if you’re not take the time to stop and enjoy life and learn about yourself. Whether it’s pondering life over a cup of Starbucks, taking a bubble bath every once in a while, or traveling the world…DO IT. Now as Evita once said, don’t cry for me Argentina because to be perfectly honest I am a little bit right now.

VIVIR MORIBUNDO

Per

Catch Up

Hey Everyone!

So it's been quite some time since I've taken the time to sit down and actually blog about everything I have been up to. It's taken a couple of weeks to get through the midterm craze and it's pretty bizarre to think that we've just wrapped that up and now it's time to begin to think about the 'final push' until the end....weird.

Beautiful Park in Palermo

Since getting back from Iguazu we've stayed pretty local. My roomates were able to head down to Cordoba, Argentina to celebrate Oktoberfest "Argentine-style" well I stayed back to welcome a visit from KATHRYN! She arrived safe and sound in one piece on Saturday and was slotted to stay for a week. Unfortuantely, she came down with a pretty bad case of strep and had to cut the trip short, leaving on Wednesday, but I guess it's a good thing that we did a lot before she got sick! Besides, I wanted to brush up on my hospital vocabularly and a trip to the Emergency Clinic at the German Hospital seemed to be the perfect solution- I really think the staff there is starting to recognize me (as the foreign blonde with nervous tendencies) but that's besides the point.

One of our tourguides

When Kath was here I enjoyed some great meals (even tried a new restaurant) and made it around a few places in the city I've never been. On Sunday, after a quick run around Palermo and a stop for some Starbucks, we headed to Plaza de Mayo where we went to Mass at the city cathedral. A nice quick 1 hour mass was a great place to relax and take in the beautiful architecture and detail work hidden in this gem of a building. (I spent some of the time understanding what was being said and most of the time with my head up looking at the paintings on the ceiling...must have looked like I was praying real hard...) After getting a satisfying Jeez-it we were able to quickly look around the entire church and its several displays dedicated to various states before we crossed the plaza to head to the Cabildo. A building that used as the seat of various government officials during colonial times is now a museum. Though not all that vast or interesting it did have a pretty nice view of the whole Plaza de Mayo and a gorgeous courtyard. Next stop, Casa Rosada. Perhaps a happy accident, as we walked by the Casa Rosada we say a huge line of people out the front door. Deciding to 'go with the flow' we tagged onto the back of the line and after we weren't stopped by any of the many guards we entered to wait for a free tour. Tours for the Casa Rosada seem pretty hard to come by considering they are only given when the President is out of the country...guess we got lucky. Although semi-hokie, after a 20 minute wait in line we were greeted by a series of 'tourguides' dressed in the traditional guard gear who rotated us through half dozen or so rooms in the building. Not to burst anyone's bubble, but although we did get to stand on a balcony (I didn't cry for my people like Evita did) the rooms seemed a little less than breathtaking. However, I thoroughly enjoyed the Bicentenial exhibit that was displayed in the foyer featuring portraits and descriptions of a whole slew of Latin American figures throughout the years...pretty neat.

Now, let's not forget the highlight of any of my experiences- the food. Of course I had to take Kathyrn to La Cabrera for a delicious piece of meat and it was just as amazing the second time around :) However, the unexpected surprise of the weekend was dinner on Monday night at a little Italian hole-in-the-wall restaurant fittingly named "Guido's Bar". Reservations are a must at this tiny gem and if you're looking for menus forget about it. The only decision you'll have to make all night is white wine or red wine and for little Ms. Indecisive this was a very. good. thing. Each night "Guido's Bar" features a different 4 course menu with the freshest ingredients. The antipasto course of sauteed mushrooms, fresh homemade mozzarella, zucchini with a vinegrette, homemade pizza and a tortilla of sorts left us in awe. We continued the indulgence with the pasta course featuring two different pastas with the most delicious sauces I have tasted in a long time. The dessert sampler plate put us over the edge with some of the most fantastic flan and tiramisu yet. Needless to say we left there quite satisfied, trying to ignore the fact that we were one of the first ones in the restaurant and the last ones out...oops.

Tuesday led to an ER clinic trip to try and get some Z-Pacs for Kathryn but apparently they just aren't the same as in the US because by Wednesday it was worse and we had to say our goodbyes so she could get home to some US medication. Although it was hard to say goodbye to my 'connection to the States' it was made a little easier finding out that my mom is coming to visit in November!!! Until then I certainly have had a lot of work to do (including starting to think about final research papers which is mindboggling considering I feel like we're no where near the end), some more exploring to take on and some overall R&R before I head back to the States and back to reality. Needless to say, the fact that regisration for my spring classes at Richmond is Monday makes me realize there's really not that much time left. But forget the sappy reflections...I've got almost 2 months to come up with all of those :)

Besos,

Perry

In the Jungle...

Hey Everyone!

The past couple of weeks have definitely been busy. As school work has picked up (it's getting hard to convince myself that abroad work is minimal...) and midterm season arrives I still managed to squeeze in a trip (one of the most amazing ones to date) to Puerto Iguazu in Northern Argentina about 17 hours from Buenos Aires by bus. Here we were able to explore the quaint town of Misiones, visit Tres Fronteras where we stood in front of three different countries and visit one of the natural wonders of the world- Iguazu Falls!

One of the many rainbows of the day...

Thursday evening we met up with a group from Expanish (the organization with whom we took our Spanish courses with) and our tour guide Leti. The 15 or so of us boarded a 'Via Bariloche' bus for what promised to be a riveting 17 hour ride. It seems that over the course of this trip we have been building our 'bus ride stamina' if you will so after a 24 leg to Salta and some other trips thrown in for good measure this was a piece of cake.

Before I delve deeper into the jungly details of the trip I must first digress (somewhat) briefly about the bus. I can say with confidence that out of the various bus lines we have traveled since being here, Via Bariloche takes the cake. Although anything was better than the blanketless 24 hour Flecha Bus ride, this bus went above and beyond offering pre-dinner drinks, 2 meal services, pillows and blankets, an 80s music video mashup, shade pull down promptly at 11 and complimentary night caps. So with a combination of cheap wine and wild and spontaneous tunes from the likes of Michael Jackson and Whitney Houston we were all lulled to sleep for a large portion of the trip....

Tres Fronteras- Standing in Argentina, Brazil to the Right, Paraguay to the upper left

We arrived in a sunny (and humid) Misiones on Friday mid morning with enough time to throw our bags in the hostel...we were in a 9 person all female room with one shower....do the math that wasn't going to work well...and then head out to walk around Puerto Iguazu and visit Tres Misiones. Located just a short distance from the "Stop Hostel" was Plaza St. Martin which featured an exhibit of sorts created by local artisans spotlighting the town's history and culture. Just a few blocks past this display we reached the waterfront and Tres Fronteras (3 Fronts). Standing on a patio of sorts close to the water's edge we looked out onto the Parahna River and the two other countries that lay a stone's throw away from us. To our right was Brazil and to our left was Paraguay. Although Brazil was probably a mere 5 minute swim from the Argentine shore the steep entrance fee into the country deterred us Americans from visiting but nonetheless it was a pretty neat thing.

"Wildlife"....

Saturday morning began nice and early as we met up with our Iguazu Forest tour guide, lathered on sun screen (which later proved not to be sufficient enough for the albino) and bug spray and packed into our van to head to the falls. Iguazu Falls is actually in a national park of sorts that features much more than the expansive sets of waterfalls but lots of vegetation, some creatures and even an island with a beach tourists can visit by boat. Luckily we were graced with a sunny day (other Expanish groups hadn't been so lucky) but this meant that it was already quite toasty as of 9 am when our tour began. For the next 10 or so hours we explored the falls from most every angle there was to offer. We saw a few lizards and iguanas, took a boat to "La Isla de San Martin" (the island in the middle of it all) where we tested our cardiovascular endurance hiking up hefty set of steps to see some more falls, and participated in the Nautical Adventure. Before going any further I must touch briefly on this "Adventura nautical" which involved 25 or so tourists, the watefalls and a whole lot of wetness. Unsuspecting to me and a few other tourists the boat actually drove us underneath a couple of the falls and although it resembled a mild form of waterboarding the experience of being showered by one of the 7 natural wonders of the world was pretty cool. We finally ended the day by taking a train over to the 'grand finale'- La Garganta del Diablo (the Devil's Throat). The eery calmness of the 1 km path leading up to this fall was strongly contrasted by the powerful, swirling fall that was all enveloped in a huge rainbow...a pretty nice ending to the day.

After heading 'home' to the hostel and nursing the beginnings of what promised to be some painful sunburns we headed to a hostel next door for an asado. Coincidentally it appeared to be senior citizens hostel weekend and although we dodged the average age by at least 50 years we didn't let that stop us from enjoying ourselves...although I'm not sure they appreciated our enthusiasm.

One of the waterfalls in Iguazu

On Sunday before departing I was able to head out on a quick run on a route around Tres Fronteras and a port to take in the amazing scenery one last time. As the humidity level rose and the rain clouds moved in, I huffed it up the last hilly turn feeling tired and crisped but still so amazed to explore yet another vastly different region of Argentina!

Besos y Abrazos!

Per

Salta!

Hola!

Just arrived back in Buenos Aires yesterday after a great trip to Salta- a city about 20 hours outside of Buenos Aires home to beautiful colored mountains, an abundance of rock formations, cacti, and of course vineyards. When traveling to Salta it's important to block off a good amount of time considering the bus ride alone is almost a full day on either end of your trip. (or if you had the same experience as we did on the way there some bus rides take upwards of 24 hours). Luckily, even though only 2 ham and cheese sandwiches were served the whole bus ride and every muscle in our legs were at risk of atrophying...we made it there safe and sound with some good stories to tell.

Salta at night

After leaving Buenos Aires 2 hours after scheduled departure, we rolled into Salta around 10 pm on Saturday evening which allowed us to see the city all lit up- pretty neat. After finding our hostel we did what any college kid would do- head out in search of dirt cheap eats. I am not embarrassed to say that for the next 4 nights almost every dinner was eaten at the same food court located in a local mall 4 blocks from our hostel crawling with tweeners and families alike. I guess food courts here have a different appeal considering your tables are cleared for you, alcohol is served, you can smoke and in some cases real plates and silverware are used....classy.

Los Cardones (cacti)

Sunday we ventured out for a 12.5 hour long tour of the mountains and some surrounding villages. Our tour guide Pablo pulled up to our hostel in style (a gold hyundai minivan), we introduced ourselves to the other tourers (a retired couple from Barcelona), and we were off. We were able to stop at several villages and points along the way seeing everything from 500 year old cacti to the beautiful colored mountains, some indigenous land and cemeteries, and of course Las Salinas. Las Salinas are natural salt fields that sound pretty bizarre but are truly neat. Once you pull up to them for quite a distance all you see is the grayish color of the hard salt formed in some pretty interesting arrangements with the occasional hole filled with pure salt laden water. For lunch we stopped in a small village- San Antonio de los Cobres. Pretty creepy if you ask me (see picture below) and although it resembled some sort of prison development and featured a bumping stereo system in its main restaurant (priorities?) it was an interesting thing to see. After visiting a few more towns (one was home to only 12 families and a whole lot of rocks...) we were back in Salta safe and sound.

Main Plaza in Salta

Monday marked a free day which was welcomed by all. I was able to take a run up a few hills (unfortunately) until I reached Plaza Guemes (if you haven't noticed every city in Argentina features the same names for plazas, streets and even restaurants so things can get a little confusing...) which sat on top of the town, giving me a pretty nice few of the modern 'Spanish' style homes and bustling city aspects alike. We ventured into the main square (9 de Julio Plaza) which was full of people preparing to celebrate the feast of Guadalupe (the patron saint of Salta) on Wednesday. Once a year a few days before the feast, people from Salta and surrounding areas as far away as Bolivia (500 km) make a pilgrimage to the city of Salta. However, this pilgrimage isn't by bus or train or car....it's by foot. For between 4 and 5 days hundreds of people walk in groups with their families, churches and friends to Salta. Local hotels and families donate unused rooms to the pilgrims, restaurants give food to the cause and tour guides talk turns walking side by side with the people, encouraging them every step of the way. Pretty amazing stuff if you ask me. We were able to also see the inside of the beautiful Iglesia de San Fransisco which featured amazing 3D like paint details throughout.

Tuesday marked another 12 tour this time to Cafayete- home to the best vineyards in the Salta region. Once again our tourguide Guadalupe picked us up in a pimped out minivan of sorts where we began the tour with 8 other people from all over the world. There was a couple from the UK in their twenties traveling the entire world for a year (they had just entered South America and would end up in Fiji, USA, Sydney...), another couple from Asia, a German couple on vacation and a couple people just backpacking around seeing what they could. On this trip too we stopped at many points throughout a narrow, mountain road to snap photos of rock formations (everything from one that resembled a frog to one named 'the Titanic') and La Garganta del Diablo (the Devil's Throat- a magnificent rock structure with a fitting name). Eventually we stopped in a small city for a couple hours where we lunched on some local cuisine ( I chose to sample 'locro'- a traditional white bean and meat stew...probably not the best pick for an 80 degree day...) and ducked into just one more church. The second half of the trip was dedicated to visiting two local wineries where we got tours of each individual vineyard's process from vine to bottle and of course got to sample :) Once we got back to our hostel we were tired but decided to venture away from the food court and instead try a local parrilla highly recommended by the hostel.

We arrived at La Monumental a little after opening around 9 pm and it was already starting to get busy. As we each began to order a different cut of meat our waiter warned us that they were to share....sure, sure he just thinks we're not that hungry...boy were we wrong. As if bringing out a cut of meat covered in ham and cheese isn't bad enough La Monumental's cuts of meat would have put Fred Flinstone over the edge. Even though there we probably should have headed to the advice of the waiter it was nice to venture outside of the walls of the food court....

Wednesday came and after one last run through the city to attempt to remind my body that I do use my muscles sometimes, it was back on the bus for another 20 hours. Back safe and sound in Buenos Aires with lots of pictures, some pink cheeks, a salt tablet from Las Salinas, and a cactus thorn it's back to reality...at least for a little while:)

xo

Per

Emergency....

This post comes a little later than usual and for no really good reason but better late than never, right? This past week was pretty uneventful- classes and a week full of rain all thanks to Santa Rosa...the patron saint of the end of August and the presumed 'reason' for a week full of freezing cold, windy, icky rain. To say the least it was a wet week of walking around the city and made me appreciate having to only run across Richmond's tiny campus in the rain...not exactly the same as battling buses, subtes and crowded city streets but so I digress...

Friday we headed to a local bar for an UCA International students event and we got quite a chuckle out of listening to the locals talk about 'Penelope'. This word typically coincides with an individual's name and the pronunciation never seems to be a big problem in the States however locals here have a little difficulty with it referring to it as "Pen-el-ope-ay". Not that funny, but simple pleasures, right?

Saturday we made the trek (a mere 15 minute walk from our apartment) to the Eva Peron Museum. Housed in one of the Women and Children's Shelters that Eva Peron founded, this museum is dedicated to her life and work and kept up by members of her family who are still living. Perhaps one of my favorite museums I have been to so far, for 15 pesos we were able to travel through the entire shelter (actually a beautifully decorated mansion of sorts) traveling in time through Eva's childhood, acting years, time with General Juan D. Peron, her multiple service missions, and her struggles with cancer and death. There were displays filled with her gorgeous gowns, shoes and handbags, original pieces of furniture from her childhood home, an exact replica of rooms in the shelter, and multiple busts and artwork of her. Needless to say, after this trip I really do need to watch Evita...she was an amazing woman.

Saturday evening we decided to mix things up and head to a recommended Mediterranean restaurant about 10 blocks from our apartment. We met up with a few other UCA students and sat down to some hummus for what promised to be a good meal among many locals. If only things worked so smoothly...Unfortunately, one member of the party had a severe peanut allergy and after one bite of the hummus and a back and forth conversation with the waitress and manager we discovered this delectable hummus was made creamy and original with peanut butter paste.....uh oh. Without much hesitation we agreed it was time to leave and I accompanied him to the private hospital recommended for tourists and international students. By the time we arrived to Hospital Aleman's ER the poor student resembled Will Smith from Hitch....

Although the event wasn't beneficial for either of our nerves or anxieties, he was seen right away and treated well. I tried not to focus too much on the differences between this ER and their laid back nature and the frantic, fast-paced ERs at home. After he was treated and IV'd the male nurse (one of many...) told me I could now go back in to see my "esposo" (husband)...what a dysfunctional couple we must have looked like. All in all, it was a worthwhile trip, but now I can say I've seen the hospital and it wasn't enough to make me want to run back anytime soon...or at all....

Sunday we headed back to our beloved Barrio Chino to gather up some ingredients for a homemade Asian feast. After fighting our ways through some rather offensive smells and refueling with a quick bowl of hot and sour soup we were on our way to play Top Chef. A few hours and a hundred dirty dishes later we sat down to some homemade dumplings, thai peanut noodles and spring rolls. Not too bad for a bunch of very American girls....:)

Monday we all began our visa process....we are quickly approaching the 90 day mark, which means we need to obtain them ASAP. We headed to the Registro Nacional de Reincidencia where we entered the deli like scene. Get a ticket, go to one window, pay money for an unidentified reason, wait in another heard of people, get called into another room...you get the picture. This step involved getting fingerprints and our criminal records to ensure that we hadn't been hoodrats in our past two months here....We will finish the process later this week by submitting copies of every single page of our passport, 4x4 photos and 300 more pesos...I guess all things considered it's a pretty painless process...

As the week continues on Santa Rosa has said farewell and the rainclouds have given way to 70 degree weather and sun...as much as I love the nice weather, let's hope this is just a phase and the warm spell doesn't start too early considering I didn't pack for summer (or spring for that matter) and may have to begin to cut all my clothes or be a real international kid and wear the same thing every day.....

Off to plan a weekend trip to las Salinas and some vineyards in Salta, Argentina...let's hope next time I blog will be after a relaxing (20 hour away) trip!

Besos,

Per

Chinatown and CABJ

Hola Hola Hola!

This past weekend marked my two month anniversary and a few neat things happened to celebrate our time here in B.A. In lieu of continuing my eating spree from last week, I decided to integrate in some cultural activities to the tune of a visit to Chinatown and a Boca Juniors Futbol Game!

Chinatown Belgrano

Saturday began a little late, with hunger pangs and without much motivation on my part. However, after scouring the internet my interest was sparked when I discovered that yes indeed Buenos Aires has its own Chinatown not too far from our neighborhood of Palermo Soho. Without paying much (any) attention to my appearance, Jen and I headed for the Subte stop to begin our Chinese excursion. Only a few stops away from us lies the neighborhood of Belgrano. A bustling barrio full of artisan fairs on the plaza, museums, outdoor cafes and cool shopping it is also home to one of the better Chinatowns in Buenos Aires. After a deep breath in (and the resulting mix of smells) I knew we were at our spot. The stereotypical 'Chinatown Arch' held up by stone dragon statues only further supported my assumption. Being that it was already 4pm on a Saturday the streets were full of locals and tourists alike stuffing themselves into the various trinket shops that filled the four blocks that were Chinatown. Littered in were some Chinese supermarkets and Asian inspired restaurants along with some pretty funky little apartment buildings.

Sign in the Chinatown store: "Don't Touch. He who breaks, pays"

After examining the lay of the land we decided to head into the busiest supermarket assuming if it drew such a big crowd it must be pretty good. Upon entering Casa China we were faced with shelves and shelves of the asian flavors and spices that the local Disco Supermarkets lack. Everything from peanut butter to gallon containers of soy sauce for a mere $8 USD there were no shortage of surprises. Spices turned into packages of Ramen style noodles which led to aisles of creepy Asian candies amongst which I found some gummy bears...finally. After ooing and ahhing at the various goods I was able to recognize a few good things the Casa China had to offer: nuts at a cheap price (although I can't tell you where they were before they were put into 'Casa China' individual bags by store employees), an abundance of (gluten-free) rice noodles and rice flour at dirt cheap prices and a random assortment of American candies ranging from Skittles to M&M's. It may have been a fairly trivial stop on our trip, but it was enjoyable nonetheless.

Mmmm....

Upon exiting the Casa China the smells of local restaurants (as well as the unpleasant look of the street vendors' foods-on-a-stick) lured us into a small, corner chinese restaurant. Simply decorated with white porcelain plates on paper placemats and bottles of soy sauce it was full of locals so we figured it couldn't be that bad. After some deciphering, translating and downright guessing we ordered a nice abundance of food hoping we would get something that we recognized. Even though the sweet and sour sauce was pink and none of my guesses ended up resulting in a plate of cho mein, the food was good and welcomed wholeheartedly by myself and Jen. I will still maintain that Lucy Chen does it right at the Ocean Kai at home but the fried rice, spicy chicken, and lo mein from Chinatown are a good solution to hold me over until I'm home :)

"We're not the only ones, so we decided to be the best ones"

After a full night's sleep on a full belly we awoke on Sunday to a beautiful day for a Boca Juniors futbol game! The Boca Juniors (CABJ- Club Argentina Boca Juniors) are a local Argentine futbol (soccer) team who is part of the Club Argentina soccer squad that plays at La Bombonera (the football stadium located in the colorful neighborhood of La Boca). We all decided to hire 'guias' (guides) to escort us through our first CABJ experience. For around $300 pesos we had a full day planned. We met our tour guides several blocks from our apartment at 2:30 where a school bus (resembling something that had once been on MTV's 'Pimp My Ride') collected the 20 or so fans to head into La Boca. Our first stop was a homely little bar that didn't offer much room but instead showcased various CABJ paraphernalia and a whole lot of Argentine pride. We were offered pizza and Quilmes until we couldn't take anymore. There is no doubt that the name of the game is having fun and they don't have a problem imbibing a bit to ensure this happens...as they made sure to let us know- no alcohol is served in the futbol stadium...it's rowdy enough as it is and boy would this lead to a bigger mess! On the bus ride over to La Bombonera we received a brutally honest briefing on safety procedures prior to entering the game. 1. Anyone with a lighter- "put it in your sock or they will take it away". 2. Ladies any makeup compacts, lipstick tubes, or lip glosses- put those in your shoes because otherwise they will be confiscated (and assumed to be holding drugs). Simple enough. Let's go.

The Boca Fans I was squeezed between...

To say we were seated with the fans was a good bet. As we headed up to our end section we were met with cement rows of 'seats' where we maneuvered our way into any open 'spot'...I ended up between a 300 lb. Boca diehard of about 60 and a little boy no older than 8 decked out in Boca blue and gold. I guess you could say that about sums up the diverse order of the fans in La Bombonera. Hey, at least we didn't have to worry about those annoying flip seats present at every stadium from Fenway to Gilette that you have to open every time you want to sit down, right? There wasn't much need to worry about sitting space because after the 45 minute long scrimmage team match and a guest appearance by some ex-CABJ hot shot everyone rose to their feet to begin to welcome the two teams. La Velez Sarsfield entered first- another Club Argentina futbol team hailing from the Liniers neighborhood of western Buenos Aires. Next, after cannons of confetti and streamers were shot and balloons were flung from the balconies above, the Boca Juniors entered the stage...time to begin play.

Boca Juniors vs. Velez Sarsfield

Over the course of the next 90 minutes of play there was certainly plenty to watch. It was a well-matched game that resulted in a 2-1 victory for the Boca Juniors. But, that was the least of the excitement. There were ferocious chants led by CABJ fans, full of colorful phrases and sayings that all amounted to a strong desire for victory by CABJ and nothing but the worst for the opposing team. There were hugs and slaps on the back from strangers when a goal was scored, water balloons tossed from the balconies when a good play was made and lots and lots of banners. Once the game finally ended and the cold had set in we learned about how La Bombonera was evacuated after every game. The (better) other sections were permitted to leave first while they literally coralled us 'rif raf' fans in our section for 30 or so minutes until the entire rest of the stadium was given ample time to leave. Although it was chilly it was not without a few chuckles and grins as we observed the opposing team take a verbal beating from the CABJ fans as they walked by our section. Yes, victory here was pretty sweet. We finally made it back to the bus and back home where we were able to warm up and calm down a little after a pretty enthusiastic event.

One of the CABJ Fan Sections

Monday marked a little more reality and a little taste of home as I headed out, laptop and Spanish readings in hand in search of the Starbucks 10 blocks away from our apartment. Why I have not bothered to find this gem of a place before the 8 week mark is beyond me, but it's safe to say this won't be my only visit. Sure, it resembled any other Starbucks in the States- couches and chairs, WiFi, and whifs of coffee from every corner. But, there's something so cosmopolitan about being in a cafe in a different country, sipping a coffee and surfing the web...isn't there? Maybe not, that's unimportant because what really mattered was that for the first time in 2 months I was able to place my hands around an actual 20 ounce cup of java. Although the coffee here in BA has been delicious, they really aren't into the intoxicating caffeine boost offered by a large size...and as you well know us Americans are definitely into supersizing our coffee. So as I sipped my french vanilla roast and stared out into the windy, cold 'autumn' day I marked my two months in Buenos Aires with a little piece of home :)

Here's to winning teams and giant cups of joe!

xo

Per

7th (Food) Heaven...

Hi Everyone!

I know I'm posting at a different time, and I'm sure you've all been losing sleep wondering where the heck my post could be (yeah right), but better late than never. This week marked week 7 and sorry to say nothing to culturally enlightening or touristy occurred on my part. It was another normal week of classes and some much welcomed warmer (60ish) weather. The best way to sum up this week would probably be food, so it's also a good thing I began to battle with running outside in a big city....not an easy feat for me.

Wednesday I made it my mission to finally run outside. Whether it was my legs telling me to please take a break from the treadmill or my wallet telling me that I could save a whole lot of pesos by not renewing my now expired gym membership but I decided to give it a try. Nervous Nelly over here thought about it all of Tuesday night and I went back and forth in my mind planning when to go, where to go and what to wear. While everyone was off to class I laced up my shoes, grabbed a key and hit the streets...legitimately wanting to pee my pants. I started off house key in my fist with my ipod in my ears (not going to lie it was clearly more to play the part than anything because I rarely run with music) and crossed the main street Sante Fe before choosing to wrap around the botanical gardens and see where I could go. The ipod lasted about 3 minutes when I realized that it could be 'dangerous' by not allowing me to hear everything around me (yeah, ok psycho) so I ripped that out. After zig-zagging all around and doing that stupid jogging in place at a crosswalk thing I make fun of so many people for doing I was finally back in front of the apartment, but feeling a little different than I usually do after a run. For starters, I was way winded and I decided to tag that as me running faster than usual so no one could get near me instead of the fact that my gym membership had already been expired for a week which was probably the true cause. Secondly, I had a huge cramp running all down my right hand side and I couldn't figure out why. That was until I pried open my right fist to find the apartment keys. Needless to say I was nervous about dropping them but still didn't want anyone to see I had apartment keys so I clenched them in my fist, thus causing a giant cramp. Clearly my nervous, anxious tendencies were highlighted for all to see during my adventure. In case you were concerned, I have since been out several times and survived every single one but I'm just hoping no one decides to come to close to ask for directions or anything of the like for both there sake and my own.

The end of the week and the weekend brought sheer laziness which had an upside- experimenting with exactly what we could get delivered to our apartment here in Buenos Aires. People told us before you came that you can get pretty much anything under the sun delivered- from empanadas to ice cream to cigarettes from the local 'maxikiosco' (yes Jen and I went there one night to get some microwave popcorn and were handed magnets with their telephone numbers advertising that they will deliver us a Coca Lite, a pack of cigarettes or even a candy bar....weird). On Saturday I decided to test out the waters of sushi delivery- and I don't think I could have picked a shadier thing to get delivered so I was REALLY hoping it all turned out okay. Sure enough after a botched Spanglish phone call to the Spanish sushi restaurant, 20 minutes later and a mere 10USD I had met the Argentine delivery man on a motorcycle at our apartment door and was headed up the stairs with the food. Now, I will be the first to say I'm not very adventurous when it comes to sushi- heck I don't even eat seafood- but this was honestly the BEST vegetable sushi roll I have ever had. Although I have yet to identify all of the ingredients in the roll the BA twist definitely had to do with the sundried tomatoes that were neatly tucked amongst the layers of cucumber, avocado, celery and pickled ginger. Needless to say sushi was not creepy but in fact delicious and I didn't even have to put on shoes or shower to go in public and retrieve it....it was a beautiful thing.

To continue on with my food adventure I decided to aim for some more 'foreign' style cuisine and go out in search of some mexican style food. Ok, looking back I would like to think this much thought went into my decision, but in reality it was 4 pm on a Sunday and a greasy burrito just sounded appealing. Jen and I headed out in search of CBC- a Chipotle style chain opened in the past few years by two US college graduates who wanted to bring this Mexican style food bar to Buenos Aires. After a treacherous walk through some sketchy side streets laden with construction areas and some run ins with wet cement (which is now hardened to the bottom of both of our shoes) we finally found CBC. Too tired and hungry to try naming ingredients in Spanish we stood in front of our burrito man and just pointed above the glass that covered all of the ingredients. We had no problem playing the part of the hasty Americans- sitting and scoffing our meals before other people had even ordered- sickening, I know. With a fork and a diet coke close by I enjoyed one of the most delicious, un-regional burrito salad to date. All I have to say is bravo you two random college students, bravo. We decided to trek home a different route on full stomachs and tired legs and this was not such a good idea. As I have stated before I am no Dora the Explorer and we literally ended up across town, but to be honest Jen and I both agreed it is more likely that someone just picked up some streets and moved them around while we were in the restaurant because we honestly were going the right way......

Just to warn you I'm coming to a close of these detailed foodie diaries, but I'm not done yet. So if you are concerned for my cholesterol level and wondering if I packed enough spandex to replace my button pants then you should just walk away now because there are a couple more food decisions to document.

Monday brought an overcast day and no classes so I decided for once in a very long time to pull myself away from the distractions of apartment life and facebook and head out in search of a cafe to do some Spanish Literature reading....bold move, right? I headed out towards the Plaza Guemes I visited a few weekends before and found a string of coffee shops. I headed into the first one that advertised a couch nestled in the corner and free WIFI named- The Coffee Store. One of best cups of coffee I have had since being here- Swiss Chocolate Almond...needless to say it made the readings seem a little less painful.

But, before doing so I ventured with my roommates a few doors down from our apartment building to a shady looking parilla restaurant we walk by everyday that offers fresh meat and an eclectic mix of various plastic chairs and tables inside a semi-dungy back room. The parilla for 5, simple salad of onions and tomatoes and hand cut french fries was nothing extravagant but was reasonably price and featured a delicious smoked flavor I haven't yet experienced here in BA. Some of the roomies headed down the street to a bakery they discovered with homemade alfajores (you know those cake like cookies sandwiched with dulce de leche and covered in chocolate...?) the size of a beach ball. I decided to end my food journey before the bakery knowing that I have no doubt I will feature it in an upcoming blog entry :)

And now we have reached tonight, where this oompla loompa completes her journey and must enter detox for the next eternity. But, I have no problems admitting that I traded the touristy temptations of museums and cultural excursions for a week full of a wide variety of what BA's food world has to offer...and you know what?....it was well worth it even if I will know have to become a little (or a lot) more familiar with some nearby running routes...

Here's to sweet dreams and full tummies!

xo

Per