Sunday, July 25, 2010

Customary Practices

Feliz Navidad en Julio!! (Merry Christmas in July!)

As I sit to write today it's raining once again...the rain must just know that I'm not motivated to leave the apartment at all today anyway :)

This week marked the final week of my immersion program at Expanish. I received my certificate for the 60 hours of Spanish work I have completed over these three weeks but it didn't seem to come with any guarantee that I will be able to speak (or understand for that matter) when I begin orientation at UCA this week during orientation and for the rest of the semester...bummer.


Expanish was definitely a very positive experience; it was a good refresher, added some much needed routine to my Monday-Friday and forced us to understand (or begin to understand) public transportation and travel on the Subte (subway line) during the morning and lunchtime rush hours. (A great venue to listen to some wannabe American Idols jamming on the subway cars but definitely not recommended for anyone with germ issues or claustrophobia.)

Tuesday marked Dia de los Amigos- friends day! We all decided to head to Siga La Vaca (Follow the Cow) for dinner. This restaurant situated in Puerto Madero (the same neighborhood as UCA) is an all-you-can-eat parilla libre. You pay a flat rate which includes as much meat and sides as you can eat plus a bottle of wine per person and dessert. (Note: all of these things are dangerous). We arrived at 9:15 to a huge crowd and put our name in for an hour wait- "mas o menos" (more or less...). Feeling as though we were in line at a homeless shelter, waiters passed around drinks and empanadas to our restless crowd as we were told "proxima mesa" (next table...sureee....) Our name was finally called at 11:30 and we paraded into the dining room. However, something was a little strange about this friends day- the only friends there were tables of 10 or more loud, obnoxious men. Our table was conveniently located in the exact center of the back dining room... surrounded by tables of male 'amigos'. Although the atmosphere was loud and obnoxious, once we muted out the comments from the people beside us and pushed aside the business cards that were put on our table (yes, apparently this is a big thing here - to hand out your business card to anyone you meet...) we thoroughly enjoyed the social environment. My only way to explain this atmosphere would be to say that the Marco 7 would not have been kicked out but welcomed with open arms...not sure any of my followers know who the Marco 7 are but if you do it's a sufficient description of the evening. The food may not have been the most fabulous, but it was a fun place for sure.

Now you can't expect my blog to be something as mundane as completing Expanish and eating at a restaurant- here comes the origin of this weeks title. Queue the dramatic music...customs at the Ezeiza International Airport! After getting wind that FedEx had withheld my package (containing my internationally capable cell phone that mommy dearest was so kind to send me) I initiated contact with FedEx. After emailing back and forth with Rodrigo we determined I would need to visit the customs office at the international airport with my passport and FedEx receipts; and so begins the voyage to collect my phone. My wonderful roommate Jen agreed to be dragged along with me after class. We should have known this would be quite comical when the cab driver had no idea where to drop us off once in the airport. Jen and I freely wandered the airport streets- security infraction?....maybe....until we were flagged down by some security guards. We had to submit our passport info and get visitor tickets to head to the customs office. I'm not sure if I imagined neon signs and loud music but once we opened the doors it was nothing more glamorous than the DMV. 20 disgruntled individuals simply pointed at the ticket machine...they need not say anymore, we knew we were in for a less than wild adventure.

What begins like a line at the Stop and Shop Deli (you take a number, then wait for them to flash your number on the screen) slowly turned into a line at a ride at Disney World. In one office for one stamp, to the back of the line at door number 2 for a signature, back to door 1 for a photocopy, to the back of the line at door 3, to door 2 to get a customs official, to the package room to find your package, to the counter to open the package, back to door 1 for authorization...you get the picture and just in case you don't this was only half of it. Needless to say Argentina must not be too fond of foreign goods- especially certified pre-owned Verizon cell phones. After much arguing back in forth in Spanglish I tried to convince the official it was not a new phone but rather a used one with new packaging. However, there was no convincing him that this was true. After a half dozen more lines, a few signatures and paying some taxes on my 'new' cellphone (if you ask me I think those pesos went right into Javier's pocket for dinner that night) we were able to walk out the door. But, of course like any good SNL skit there was more. Getting lost on the airport streets, flagged down by security officials once more, we finally made it into a cab. Thank goodness the cab driver didn't want to talk....if only! He made sure to point out (in all Spanish) that we were not locals. (Si senor). That he knew because I was blonde. (Si senor). That he also knew because I had white skin. (Si senor). Very white skin. (well duh, captain obvious). And a very, very red face. We chatted it up and learned about 'trampas' (or tricks) to take to avoid rush hour traffic. I learned a lot from this- mostly not to look forward to any packages while I'm here ;)

Friday night we celebrated a fellow Richmond-ers birthday at Juana M.- a parilla in Retiro (a few neighborhoods over). The food was good, but the atmosphere was better (picture SoHo in New York city). Check out my 'Guia de Restaurantes' tab for more info (nice plug, right?!?) Forget New York, Buenos Aires is definitely the city that never sleeps- point being we stayed at the restaurant until 1:45 before heading to an Irish Pub- because there is a huge Irish population here....naht.

Saturday we were able to visit La Boca via a new form of public transportation- el colectivo (the bus(!! La Boca is a small barrio situated on the water about 20 minutes from our apartment that is home to tango, the Boca Junior futbol team and their stadium La Bombonera (Maradona played for them), and El Caminito- a street full of street vendors and brightly colored houses. (Ready for another plug? Thought so.) Check out my Fotos tab to find a description of La Boca and see some pictures from the day. It was definitely a little chilly on the water, but way worth it.

So as I contemplate whether or not to do laundry in the ghetto washer machine, I wonder what tomorrow and Orientation at UCA will bring. Feel free to post any advice and remember a couple of things: 1- don't try sending packages abroad and 2- if you're pale and blonde you really are a foreigner everywhere :)

Abrazos y Besos,

xo

PER


Sunday, July 18, 2010

Week Two...Summer Camp?


Hola a todos!

It's hard to believe that the second full week here in B.A. is coming to a close..and a miserably rainy one at that :(

This week began with a unianimous decision by my roomates and I to stop procrastinating and officially find a gym to belong to. We happened to be pretty lucky that a mere 2 blocks away from our apartment is the Always Club- a basic gym that offers a few classes, plays voiced over episodes of friends and is full of cardio equipment circa 1985. But, it will get the job done. We went in to get memberships- $150 pesos for a month (~$35 USD)- and we peppered with a list of questions...in Spanish of course. Somewhere between lots of words and confused looks arose the word "medico" meaning doctor. When the receptionist asked us when we wanted our "doctor's appointment" we all looked puzzled and replied that we only wanted a gym membership, no physicals needed here. Until we found out that receiving an exam by a gym doctor is a requirement. We hesitantly signed up for one that same evening then rushed home to google this creepy prerequisite. Sure enough we found loads of accounts about Buenos Aires and many parts of Argentina requiring a gym doctor to certify that you are fit to work out. After several routine tests (blood pressure, stethascope, height and weight) we were given an EKG. No, I'm not joking. Thankfully we passed with flying colors and we all have our EKG diagrams as souvenirs. Unfortunately, we all seem to have slipped into the general trend of not working out...honestly I don't know how people do it but working out (or wearing sweatpants in general) is by no means 'the norm' here.

We completed our second week of immersion classes at Expanish in a brand new building that offers more space and better facilities. Too bad the heat wasn't working the first few days---because remember it's winter here! This week marks our third and final week in immersion before we head to international student orientation at UCA (Universidad Catolica de Argentina)


This weekend we had our first experience with a boliche- an Argentine disco club/bar. Boliches do not open until 12 pm at the earliest (the norm being 2 am) and they stay open until 7 am. A typical night involves dinner at 10, previstas (or pregames) around 12, then boliches at 2 am. It was definitely a part of the 'culture' that may take some getting used to considering we could barely all make it until 5 am....


Saturday we trekked the 10 blocks from our apartment into a SoHo like area full of bars and restaurants called Plaza Serrano. We ate at a great restaurant that fused authentic Argentine cuisine with more American ideals. Exhibit A: I feasted on Milanesa Soya - a traditional Argentine Milanese but made with all soy...I think I have found my Buenos Aires style veggie burger!


Sunday we awoke to rain- and lots of it! We decided to 'take it easy' and visit the museum of latin american art. But, as you know nothing with 5 girls is easy especially when you involve maps and foul weather. It didn't look like a daunting distance on the map but after a few wrong turns, some inside out umbrellas and a lot of wetness we finally arrived looking like drowned rats. This smaller museum featured 2 floors full of Latin American art. Impressionists, (some very racy) photography- the photography room was actually marked with a disclaimer noting that young children may be disturbed...guess the family friendly environment isn't a huge concern at this particular museum, and even pieces by Freida Kahlo. Considering admission was a mere 10 pesos for students it was worth every penny.

After a whirlwind week of activity once again it's still hard to believe that I'm really here for more than 5 months! As I sit here to type this I definitely have some mixed emotions... for starters this isn't summer camp where I wait a mere 10 days for Mom and Dad to get me and it's not a gluttonous vacation either...this is 'real life' now (or something close to that :) I could easily sum up my experience so far in a few phrases- speaking Spanish with natives is hard (Sra. Gilboy would even struggle with this stuff), the food is good, but composing grocery lists, remembering to buy toilet paper and realizing you can't eat yogurt for dinner every night makes you wish you paid a little more attention in Home Economics class; the nightlife is fun (even if it doesn't pick up until 2 am) but I don't think blending in as a blonde-haired, blue-eyed native will be in my cards anytime soon...OK, so before any of my 9 followers (yes those 9 include Mom, Dad, Max and Nick) start thinking I'm turning into a BMB (Bad Mood Betty) I want to clarify that I am having an AMAZING TIME. This is a once in a lifetime experience that I am so honored and privileged to be taking advantage of- and that's just what I need to do. So rather than get down on my newfound responsibilities, fears and concerns I need to move forward with a positive attitude, continue finding those 'normal' tidbits to add to each and every day and even keep on reaching outside of my comfort level to discover all this amazing country has to offer..so I think that's just what I'm going to do! Here's to a new week of looking forward and not looking back (home-although I do love to hear about everything you all are up to :)

Love and Hugs from Buenos Aires,
xx
PER

Monday, July 12, 2010

Check out my pictures on shutterfly

View pictures from my trip on shutterfly.com
See the link below:
http://perryinbuenosaires.shutterfly.com/pictures#n_5

Mendoza













* First Picture: Parque de San Martin
*Second Picture: Parque Nacional en los Andes
* Third Picture: Tour of Vistantes Vineyard

Just arrived from a long weekend in Mendoza and it was truly a fabulous experience!

My apartment mates and I left with a group of 13 plus our tour guide on Thursday night and went from Buenos Aires to Mendoza on a 'cama bus'. Buses are the preferred means of transportation to various places in Argentina and they are categorized based on their seats- normal (seats don't recline), semi cama (recline into a semi or partial bed) and cama (recline almost all the way back into a bed-like seat, similar to a business class seat on an airplane). The bus ride was a little over 13.5 hours and when we arrived in Mendoza it was already noon on Friday. We went by bus to a hostel (my first hostel experience...) and checked into our rooms.

Friday afternoon we toured 2 vineyards (Vistantes- a vineyard established in 2007 that only produces a little over 1500 bottles a year, and Cecchin Vineyard- an organic winery), an olive oil factory, and a chocolate and liquor factory where they produce over 20 types of homemade liquor (they even let us sample- the dulche de leche liquor is their specialty).

Saturday began (a little too) early when we bundled up and boarded a bus to take us from the hostel on a tour through the Andes. We got out at several points along the 12 hour tour to get different views of the mountains, visit Incan Ruins, a national Park and eat lunch at a ski resort.
Sunday we were able to walk around the city of Mendoza and visit two parks- La Plaza Internacional (similar to Boston Commons) and El Parque de San Martin (a huge park with lakes, vendors, walking trails, restaurants, and monuments). We were able to catch the final match of the Copa Mundial (world cup)....Argentines were split between cheering for Holland and Spain...before we boarded the bus home.

After trekking through the bus station and then multiple subway lines with all our luggage during the morning rush hour we are finally "home" in our apartment-full of good wine and memories :)



Thursday, July 8, 2010

Headed to Mendoza for the weekend....the vineyards and Andes should make the 13 hour bus ride worth it :)